Chevrolet 235 Engine Swap
Thisarticle comes from Patricks and I am including it because of the
numberof requests on how to do this procedure.
ContactPatricks for 1937 to 1962 Chevrolet 6 cylinder rebuild and hop upparts.They have an amazing inventory of early speed equipment
andengine parts.
http://www.patricksantiquecars.com/
Clickherefor a printable text version of this article.
The rear of every Chevy '6' block (216, 235, or 261) is the same from 1937 through 1962, and the flywheel/crank-flange pattern is the same from '41-'62! We obviously have wonderful interchangeability. Therefore, using pure Chevy parts, any engine from '37-'62 can be installed into any chassis (car, truck, etc.) from '37-'62!
- The Chevy 235 inline 6 cylinder engine was first introduced in 1941 and was mainly used in large trucks. In 1950, GM decided to use the 235 in several of its automobiles that were going to have the new Powerglide automatic transmission. In 1953, all Chevy 235 engines that were used with Powerglide transmissions were upgraded with a fully.
- The Chevy 235 engine was first released in 1941 as an upgrade to the 216. The new 235 was designed for trucks, giving them a boost in overall power. In 1950, the Chevy 235 was added to the lineup of passenger cars. It was paired with the Powerglide transmission to great success, and by 1954, it was the standard in Chevy cars.
- Aug 09, 2021 1958-1962 Chevrolet 235 Engine Crankshaft #3701488. Came out of Block# 3769716. Take out from pu,complete engine, all metal, bell housing, 2 transmissions, carb, exhaust all parts like when it was new.
Ifyou own a '37-'53 early Chevy car or truck with a 'splashoiling' 216 or 235 engine, and want a smooth, powerful daily driver, installingthe later full pressure 235 is the answer.
Thisnew design was first installed in 1953 passenger cars with PowerGlide,thereafter in all models and sizes (passengers andcommercial). Notonly does the swap happen easily, without butchering or modification,itbrings improved performance and reliability from full pressure oiling,insert rod bearing, and lighter weight aluminum pistons, not to mentionimproved breathing, thanks to larger intake valves and ports.
Readon for the (9) simple installation tips and identification clues tohelpyou score the right engine. This is one swap 'made in Heaven'...
1.The rear of every Chevy '6' block (216, 235, or 261) is the same from1937through 1962, and the flywheel/crank-flange pattern is the same from'41-'62!We obviously have wonderful interchangeability. Therefore, using pureChevyparts, any engine from '37-'62 can be installed into any chassis (car,truck, etc.) from '37-'62! You will however, need to pick the rightparts.Here's how...
Whateveryou're putting the donor engine into ('41-'53), re-use your originalbellhousing flywheel and starter. This means your rear motor mounts remainunchanged. '37-'40 installations will need to get a '41-'54 wide tooth(#139) 6 bolt flywheel off any 216, 235 or 261, then use theoriginalbell housing and starter. The 6 volt starter is just fine, even ifyou'reconverting to 12 volts... it'll love it! (Final Note ofCaution:the fine tooth (#162) '55 and later flywheel will not meshwith youroriginal starter! Do not use it.)
2.Pre-'49 cars and trucks will have to slightly alter the exhaust pipe tofit the 235 manifold. By the way, 216/235 exhaust/intakes won't mix andmatch, and though the entire 216 manifold set can be bolted to the 235involved, it's a bit Mickey Mouse since the port rings will have to beeliminated due to the 216's smaller port size.
3.If your 'new' 235 has the big water temp. hole, ask NAPA for Balkamppart#701-1542 (Weatherhead calls it p/n 202x5x4). Now, your original temp.sender fits.
4.Let's solve the 'hydraulic or solid lifter question' now... Solids werethe rule on every Chevy '6' through 1949 (either 216 or 235'Loadmaster').Between 1950 and '57, solids came with every commercial or 'stick'(pass.)transmission, whether 216 or 235 or 261 engine. Hydraulics went onlywithPowerGlide equipped cars. From '58 to '62, every block was drilled forhydraulic lifters, though some had solids installed. Hydraulic lifterswill only function in a block that has the oiling passage drilledthroughthe lifter bores (which hole will be plugged and visible on the rear ofthe block, just above the cam plug).
'58-'62engines must use a lifter with chamfered sides to prevent shutting offrocker arm oil! NO oil line from rear cam bearing to block center willbe found in the pushrod chamber of these engines and, in addition totheI.D. criteria (above), will have a triangular side mount pattern.
5.Mention MUST be made of the Federal reduction of gasoline lead contentto .1 gm/gal. beginning January 1, 1985. This amount of lead additiveis1/10 of the amount your engine was designed for and continued operationwill effect exhaust valve/seat life.
Takethe time, while you're building your engine, to have the no-leadexhaustvalves and seats installed in the cylinder head! (You'll get to do itsooneror later). Call Patrick's for the parts.
ADDENDUM
1.SPECIAL NOTE for all 1952 and '53 Passenger. Your cars have a sidemountarrangement which will require locating a full pressure block fromeithera '53 P.G. or (any '54) cars or truck.
2.Identifying the full pressure you want to install. (Remember, you'relookingfor a '53 P.G., or anything later.)
A.Simply checking the style of the water pump will take care of about 90%of the prospects. If it has a pump whose entire body is below the headcasket surface, rather than half on the block and the upper half infrontof the head, it's gotta be '55 (2nd) through '62. You've found it. Thesearch is over. Disregard any of the next criteria.
B.Check the rocker cover ('valve cover'). If it's held on with four (4)screws(2 on each side), it's a '54 through '62 and the right one. Look nofurther;you just scored .
C.Walk on by any engine with the tall pushrod cover that surrounds thesparkplugs. It is a 'babbit pounder'.
D.Also eliminate any engine with the little tell-tale triangular plateandcurved oil line in the middle of the driver's side. This tells you ithasthe dreaded dipper rods and splash oiling. The driver's side of theengineyou want is 'clean' (no plate or line).
E.Disregard any engine with the studs through the rocker cover, exceptone:the '53 P.G. (first year); but, it will be without the above plate andline, too.
F.Want to pinpoint engine I.D.? On the block above the end of the starterwill be an initial (A-L), followed by either (2) or (3) numbers. Theinitialrepresents the month: the numbers are the day and year the block wascast.Now then, no more guessing!
3.A note on front of mount plates. They will interchange on every Chevy'6'(216, 235, or 261) built from 1937 thru '62! This matches the bellhousingstory. It's another story, but the fronts and rears of every Chevy '6'are also the same as every GMC 'small' '6' (228, 236, 248, 256, 270,and302)!
Obviouswhy these were popular swaps!
4.Throttle linkage may need modifying if your block's bellcrank mountholeis further back (toward firewall). Easy...some of the curve will needtobe taken out of the accelerator rod. Squeeze it in a vise until itmakesits travel without rubbing the floor pan (as installed in thebellcrank,without return spring). When that's done, measure how much it needsshorteningby bringing the whole linkage assemble to 'full throttle'. Simply cutthatamount out of the slender part of the rod and re-weld. Done!
5.Front engine mount pad(s) should be installed on the engine beforeputtingit between the fenders, since the passenger side bolt may only go intothe mount with the timing cover and crank pulley (OK, 'harmonicbalancer')removed. (See front mount hole in addendum item #3.)
6.Water pump/generator alignments depend on each other. Install the waterpump first. If your 235 wore the long water pump pulley, DO NOT BEGINHACKINGON THE RADIATOR CORE SUPPORT and/or LATCH PANEL! Patrick's has theshortpump and special pulley for only $109.95. This allows for the use ofthelarger, late model fan, which provides better cooling. (Note: it is notcorrect to press the early 216 pulley onto the late water pump, sincethisspins the impeller approximately 190% of design speed, and may evencavitatethe water, causing overheating. In addition, the old back-woods methodcan literally be dangerous, since it requires using the 216 'low speed'fan which is turned far beyond its design safety.)
7.Now, align the generator with the water pump pulley. If you wish toswitchto an alternator at this point, Patrick's has the bracket set for only$49.95. (specify year.)
8.Radiator Hoses and sizes. Upper hose may require re-use of your 216thermostathousing. No sweat, bolt it onto the 235 cylinder head. Lower hose mayneedto be dual size. Your neighborhood parts house has them available.
9.Crankshaft Pilot Bushing. Check for the presence of this vital item ifyou're putting a 'stick' tranny behind the later 235! (if the enginecamewith automatic, it may not have one). Chevy part #3752487. Install withchamfered hole toward you. Drive bushing flush.
Chevrolet 235 Engine Identification
10.Enjoy!
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They both did best with highway driving, regular oil changes and engine speeds of under 3000 RPM.
In my part of the country they could use an overhaul by 50,000 miles due to oil consumption which was caused by the oil ring and oil return holes in the piston plugging up with carbon. A highway driver could get double the mileage. The babbited rods would not be a weak point if oil was changed and , especially on the before 1948 models, rods adjusted it beginning to make noise.
I drove those engine hard and fast and never has any rod bearing problems.
Getting 80,000 miles on a mail route engine sounds about correct (with oils back then).......as the stop and go driving is hard on both the brakes and egine.
The 1953 Power Glide and all 1954 engines had full pressure oiling and alumimum pistons many lacked the low oil consumption that a cast iron 216 or 235 could provide.
Note that the 1948 and later dipper 216 and 235 engines had the thin babbitt bearings and with proper oil changing could go 100,000 with out a rod adjustement.
Wnen I first started at the dealership in 1950 we were overhualing 1947 engines with 35,000 miles. They were using oil, due to carboned up rings needed a valve job. wrist pins clucking at idle speeds, etc. After that low mileage and only three years the engine was fillled with sludge and the oil pump screen was beginning to plug-up.
On a lot of other makes tthe engine would be worn out by 50,000 miles and would require a rebore job, etc. to cure problems. A chevrolet engine could be overhauled once or twice in 100,000 miles and still no major cylinder wall wear.
My present 1950 Power Glide car has 56,000 miles on it, most with good modern oils, head has never been off, oil consuption at high speeds less than 1000 miles to a quart and runs as quiet as they did when new. 65 MPH is my usual highway speed with the 3.55 rear end and engine speed about 2800 RPM.